Follow the instructions that are printed on the package. The recommended baking temperature varies from brand to brand, but it is usually suggested that you cure clay at 265°F to 275°F (129°C to 135°C) for at least 15 minutes per ¼ inch (6mm) of thickness. Some polymer clay artists cure for much longer than is recommended. (In fact, many people cure everything, no matter what its thickness, for at least 45 minutes.) As long as the temperature stays at the suggested level, it should be possible to cure things for hours. The problem is that some ovens are prone to temperature spikes. If the temperature exceeds 300°F (149°C), the clay may scorch or burn. Whenever you cure polymer clay-- but especially when you're new to it-- you should use an oven thermometer to monitor the temperature. For more information about curing polymer clay, visit these pages: Polymer Clay - Brands, for curing instructions by brand… and Techniques - Baking/Curing Where should I store my polymer clay?

Polymer clay is essentially PVC, polyvinyl chloride. It is plastic, but until it is cured, it is a very malleable plastic. It can be shaped and reshaped a multitude of times without deterioration. As long as it is stored away from excessive heat and direct sunlight, polymer clay can sit unused for years and still be workable (though it may require softening additives if left for very long). Unlike earthen clay, it doesn't have to be fired in a kiln, nor will it dry out at room temperature, like other clays will do. Polymer clay cures at significantly lower temperatures than earthen clays, so it can be easily hardened in a home oven or toaster oven. (In fact, the high temperatures in a kiln would ruin polymer clay and release potentially dangerous fumes.) Though it varies slightly by brand, most polymer clay must be cured at 265°F to 275°F (129°C to 135°C) for at least 15 minutes per ¼ inch (6mm) of thickness. Once cured, polymer clay is hard and surprisingly durable. It can be scratched, cracked or broken, but if treated with moderate care, cured polymer clay can last for years without deterioration. For more information about polymer clay, visit this page: Polymer Clay - Description

Polymer clay is essentially PVC, polyvinyl chloride. It is plastic, but until it is cured, it is a very malleable plastic. It can be shaped and reshaped a multitude of times without deterioration. As long as it is stored away from excessive heat and direct sunlight, polymer clay can sit unused for years and still be workable (though it may require softening additives if left for very long). Unlike earthen clay, it doesn't have to be fired in a kiln, nor will it dry out at room temperature, like other clays will do. Polymer clay cures at significantly lower temperatures than earthen clays, so it can be easily hardened in a home oven or toaster oven. (In fact, the high temperatures in a kiln would ruin polymer clay and release potentially dangerous fumes.) Though it varies slightly by brand, most polymer clay must be cured at 265°F to 275°F (129°C to 135°C) for at least 15 minutes per ¼ inch (6mm) of thickness. Once cured, polymer clay is hard and surprisingly durable. It can be scratched, cracked or broken, but if treated with moderate care, cured polymer clay can last for years without deterioration. For more information about polymer clay, visit this page: Polymer Clay - Description

Polymer clay is available for sale in most chain craft stores (Hobby Lobby, Michaels, A.C. Moore, etc.). The brands and sizes of packages will vary from chain to chain. For instance, most stores carry only 2-oz. blocks of most clay, with possibly 1-lb. bricks in white and black, and while Hobby Lobby sells Kato Polyclay, Michaels doesn't. Some chains have periodic clay sales with ½ off the regular price or all 2-oz. blocks for $1.25 or even (rarely) 99¢. These sales are a great time to stock up on polymer clay. If the store is out of the color you need, you can request a rain check. Because stock in your local craft store will be limited to only certain brands, sizes, and colors of polymer clay, you may sometimes wish to order clay on-line. There are a number of vendors, including larger, general arts and crafts suppliers, such as DickBlick and MisterArt, and small businesses that cater to the polymer clay community. These smaller on-line stores may offer tools and materials made especially for polymer clay-- things you can't find as easily at the larger on-line stores-so it's worth shopping around.

You may have seen some pieces of polymer clay that looked amazingly like glass. You can achieve this high gloss in a couple of ways. The easiest is to apply a finish to the cured polymer clay. There are a variety of finishes that are proven to be compatible with polymer clay, but the most popular, cheapest, and most easily available are Future Floor Wax and Varathane, a water-based floor sealer. The other way to achieve a high gloss is to sand the cured polymer clay with high-grit (automotive) wet/dry sandpaper through a number of grits-often 400-600-800-1000. Once the sanded clay is dry, light application to a buffing wheel brings out a glass-like shine. Buffed clay can also be painted with a couple coats of finish. For more information about finishes that are compatible with polymer clay, visit this page: Materials - Finishes For information about sanding and buffing polymer clay, visit this page: Techniques - Sanding & Buffing

Liquid polymer clay is just what it sounds like-- a liquid version of polymer clay. It can be bought translucent or tinted, and the translucent form can be hand-tinted with oil paint, alcohol ink, powdered pigments, or glitter. There are three common brands of liquid polymer clay- Liquid Sculpey (the translucent form of which is often referred to as "TLS"), Kato Clear Polyclay Medium ("Kato Sauce"), and Fimo Liquid Decorating Gel ("Liquid Fimo"). The Kato brand of liquid clay is generally thought to have the clearest translucency. Use liquid clay to make image transfers, use it as a glaze, tint it to make faux cloisonné, make polymer clay-infused fabric, or use it as "polymer clay glue" or "polymer clay paint". There are countless applications. For more information about liquid polymer clay, visit this page: Specialty Clays - Liquid Clay

If polymer clay is properly stored, it should last for years. The most important rules of storage are to keep the clay out of direct sunlight and away from excessive heat. (That means you shouldn't leave it in your car while you shop, unless you've put it into a cooler.) Polymer clay left at room temperature will remain malleable for years, but it may last even longer if put into cold storage (in your refrigerator or even the freezer). Unopened clay can be left as it is, but once you've opened a block of clay, you'll want to re-package it in plastic wrap, plastic bags, or wax paper, to prevent dust and hair from contaminating it. Raw clay shouldn't be stored in contact with paper, because the plasticizers will leach out and leave the clay dry and crumbly. If you don't want to wrap your clay, you can store it in a lidded container. Glass and metal containers work well, but wood isn't ideal. While some types of plastic boxes are fine for storage, others "melt" with prolonged contact with polymer clay. Generally, plastics with recycling number of 2, 4, or 5 are fine, but if you're not sure, you can run a test with a small piece of clay. If there is no unusual stickiness or distortion of the plastic after a day or so, the container should work for storage. For more information about polymer clay storage, visit this page: Polymer Clay - Storage

For your first experiments with polymer clay, you don't need much. A little clay, your hands to shape the clay with, a work surface, and an oven to cure the clay in are all that is absolutely necessary. Your work surface can be as simple as a piece of wax paper taped down to a table. When you cure the clay, you should either use a cookie sheet you no longer care to use for cooking or line the sheet with foil or paper. (Using paper or parchment prevents the shiny spots that form when clay is cured on a slick surface, like metal.) If you like, you can use tools when you work with polymer clay. Start small by finding cheap or washable tools you already have around the house, such as toothpicks, drinking straws, knitting needles, rubber stamps, pen caps, and bamboo skewers. (Don't use anything that will come into contact with food or your mouth in the future. Any kitchen tool you use with polymer clay should be craft-dedicated afterwards.) If you find that you enjoy working with polymer clay, you'll probably want to expand your supply of tools. The variety of tools available is endless. In addition to those made and marketed especially for use with clay, there are many more that polymer clay artists and hobbyists have "re-purposed". For more information about tools, visit this section: Getting Started with Polymer Clay What should I do first?

If you are completely new to polymer clay, you will probably do well to find a few resources to help you out as you learn the ins and outs of the medium. If you learn best by watching and listening (and have the cash to spare), you may be able to sign up for a beginner's class at your local craft store or find a private teacher in your area. If that's not possible, the next best thing is an instructional DVD (which can be purchased or even rented) or a web-based demo. There are plenty of free demonstrations on YouTube, for instance, but there are also sites where you can pay a subscription fee for access to a collection of instructional videos streamed right over the Internet. Another popular option is a book with beginner-level projects. Visit your local library or any bookstore to see what's available. Look for books with at least some of the projects geared toward beginners, preferably with plenty of step-by-step photos and detailed instructions. A book is handy, because you can keep it right in front of you as you work, but there are also a wealth of tutorials on the Internet-- many available free of charge. Run a search for "polymer clay tutorials" and see what turns up (or take a peek at the Tutorials section of this website). There are also on-line communities of people interested in polymer clay. Many of these people are eager to offer helpful, friendly advice to newbies, so don't be afraid to ask. Even the most experienced clayer was new to the medium once!

This is of course largely a matter of opinion. Read reviews on-line. Look through the book, if you have a chance. Do the projects interest you? Read through some of the directions. Can you understand what you're supposed to do, or are you already confused? If you "get" the author's style of instruction, and if you like the projects, the book should be a good fit for you. If you're interested in good books for general polymer clay information, you might consider these, for a start: The Polymer Clay Techniques Book, by Sue Heaser Creative Ways with Polymer Clay, by Dotty McMillan The Weekend Crafter: Polymer Clay, by Irene Semanchuk Dean The New Clay, by Nan Roche For more information about books about polymer clay, visit this page: Resources - Books

Yes, polymer clay is certified as a non-toxic product. However, there are a few important guidelines that most people who use polymer clay follow. First, don't eat it and don't give it to children who are too young to be trusted not to eat it. (Even if it is certified non-toxic!) It is also recommended that you not use cured polymer clay as an eating utensil, food bowl, etc. Because cured polymer clay is porous, it would be impossible to clean it sufficiently to prevent bacteria from growing in/on it. For the same reason that you shouldn't eat polymer clay, it is suggested that you use only clay-dedicated tools with it. That means that if you use a kitchen knife or cutting board with polymer clay, you shouldn't use it again with food. Instead, dedicate it for use with polymer clay and other craft purposes. Another common concern with polymer clay is that it releases "fumes" as it cures. As long as the clay is baked at the recommended temperatures, it will not release any dangerous fumes, though there may be a slight smell at normal curing temperatures. Even if the clay does burn (which happens only at excessive temperatures), the fumes that are released should not have a lasting effect. They may cause stinging eyes, nose and throat, but once you turn off the oven and move to another, well-ventilated place (until the fumes have had a chance to dissipate), you'll soon feel fine. For more information on safety issues with polymer clay, visit this page: Polymer Clay - Safety Issues

With the popularity of polymer clay, there are many websites (everything from personal web pages to corporate sites by the manufacturers of clay) with information about polymer clay. Use a search engine to browse pages about clay or start by checking our list of helpful websites. Sometimes you'll have a specific question. In those cases, it's nice to be able to present your exact circumstances to a group of experienced clayers. There are numerous on-line groups (message boards, e-mail lists) that focus on polymer clay. Find one that is compatible with your interests and join in the conversation. Many polymer clay artists and hobbyists are more than happy to offer tips to beginners. If there is a polymer clay guild in your area, you may want to consider joining it. Not only will you be able to ask your fellow guild members for advice, but you can also have a lot of fun and make new friends in your region. Guilds & Associations